Posted by Titanium Wild , 17 September 2012 5:20:00 pm
Back in August, I wrote this post, in which I talk briefly about chypre style perfume. Since then I have tinkered, again, with my initial formula, and added some Violet Leaf absolute(which I adore, but which is very strong, not much needed at all to add a 'green' note to the accord).
I loved the resultant aroma, but I wanted to develope it further into a full on, saleable, natural perfume, and as a result, the Hypnotica Project was born.
The simple mission of the Hypnotica Project is to create natural, chypre style accord.
A classic chypre traditionally contains bergamot, oakmoss, labdanum and often patchouli, and on this foundation various other oils are added depending upon what type of chypre you wish to create. My initial note was based upon patchouli, cypress and clary sage oils, with bergamot playing a supporting role.Now, I don't currently have any labdanum, or oakmoss(this is heavily restricted these days, although there is now an IFRA compliant oakmoss available to buy) in stock, so what I have currently sitting in this darling little pot is not strictly a chypre, more a note that will become part of a chypre accord.
I'm hoping to order my IFRA compliant Oakmoss, some Labdanum, and a few other precious or rarer oils which may or may not find their way into the final product, very soon.
For the first stage of my project, I took my original formula plus the smidgeon of Violet Leaf absolute, and added more green notes in the shape of Sweet Marjoram & Sweet Basil, with the intention of extending the life of the VLA in the perfume. With the classic chypres in the back of my mind, I increased the amount of bergamot in the formula, but also added a dash of cedarwood in order the sweeten the overall blend. VLA is fabulous, but it will overpower a blend if not used judisciously, and I needed to round off the harsher notes which were coming through.
To give you an idea of it's potency, to date, the individual parts of my formula add up to 86, and of that, only 1 part is Violet Leaf, yet it's very evident on initial testing that the note is there. Infact it's the very first thing you smell.
I also swapped geranium oil for rose geranium, as I felt the RG had a stronger floral profile which would compliment my blend, and remove some of the cooler notes eminating from the inclusion of the original geranium.
So, after all my tinkering and changing, and experimenting, what I have in that little green pot is akin to an unfinished work of art(ha! pretentious much).
It's opening is reminiscent of clambering through a secret garden on a sultry summers day, the sharpness of roughly cut leaves in the air. The journey takes you through a shaded copse of trees, the sweet smokiness of the wood permeating the air. The scent is entrancing, leading you further from the path as you pick your way through the undergrowth until you reach a secluded area in which you settle, eyes closed, with heady floral accents gently rocking you to sleep.
But the journey has really only just begun. I'm chasing the dream which follows.
I wonder what the dream will contain.